City Gate Grille- a little sizzle in the 'burbs

City Gate Grille is the latest dining option to open in the western fringes of Naperville. The restaurant is located in CityGate Center, a mixed use development just north of the IL. rte. 59 exit off of I-88. The complex includes the boutique hotel Arista, previously reviewed on this site, and is expecting to add retail stores and other attractions as it grows. This is a destination restaurant and it better be because currently there's not much else to see or do in the neighborhood unless you're a hotel guest or are in the area on business.

The focus here is on regional American with Mediterranean influences, which covers a lot of real estate. For our media dinner, young - he's only 31-executive chef David Sapp prepared an interesting and largely successful menu. A selection of appetizers including smoked trout and duck prosciutto were very well received and left us eagerly awaiting the main event. The 5 course dinner traveled through several Med. regions, but there was always a sense of unity from one course to the next. The seasonings were subtle enough that you didn't feel like you just ran through Epcot scarfing down every over-the-top niblet each country thrust in your face. Which is not to say that there wasn't any flavor. Indeed, everything from the onion bisque to the pumpkin cheesecake was a big mouthfull of yum. Only the fish course was a bit disappointing, although that may be just me. I've always had a kind of adversarial relationship with the ichthyological contingent of the culinary arts. However, the scallops from the aforementioned appetizer sampler were outstanding, which just shows how fickle Neptunian charms can be. The presentations were attractive without being cutesy or showy, letting the aromas and flavors dominate.

The wine pairings were right on target, although the chocolate stout beer didn't match too well with the cheesecake - too bitter for the sweetness of the dessert. It's not wine, so I suppose that lets it off the hook. Unfortunately, our menu didn't list the wines, so I can't comment on the vineyards. Given the

accuracy of the pairings, it's probably fair to say you could rely on the sommolier's recommendations.

My lovely but latcose intolerant wife has often had to settle for mediocre substitutions - you know, the whole angel hair with marinara thing - but here she was well accomodated. The bisque and cheesecake were out of the question, of course, but the other selections were tweaked just enough that she could truly enjoy them without fear of dairy induced reprisals.

The room itself seats 220 on a couple of different levels and was conversation friendly. An unusual bas relief wall of undulating wave forms dominates one end and provides a distraction from the open bar with its ubiquitous TVs tuned in to sports channels. Given the entree price level (around $15-30) this intrusion is really unwarranted.

All in all it was a very pleasant and delicious evening. You can learn more about City Gate Grille at citygategrille.com.